Welcome to the leopard gecko care guide

key facts

Eublepharis macularius (Leopard Gecko)

  • Originate from India, Pakistan
  • Lifespan: 6-10yr but can do 15-20 in captivity
  • Puberty: 1yr
  • Often best alone although some females can live with others
  • Most active at dusk and dawn (crepuscular)
  • Tail autotomy
    • Their tail can “drop” off and regrow with a cartilaginous rod.
  • Shed every 2-5 weeks
    • The faster they grow the more they will shed
    • Eat their own skin from their sheds (get minerals and vitamins from this)
Cute small gecko lizard cartoon style

enclosure

Leopard geckos are a terrestrial species. The bigger the enclosure the better for movement, so long as the appropriate temperatures can be maintained. Multiple hides should be provided – humid hides should be provided to help with shedding (humid hides can be created using sphagnum moss) and should be provided at both the hot and cold end of the enclosure.

Substrate

  • Reptile carpet, paper towels, sand-soil can be used
  • Never use calci-sand for substrate as it has a high impaction risk

areas to dig are important

  • Females lay eggs regardless of male presence
  • Sand-soil mix can work well or Critter Crumble (coconut husk)
  • Can be provided in an area of the enclosure

cleaning

Daily spot cleans of enclosure are important to remove waste:

  • Clean of the enclosure weekly recommended
  • F10 1:250 dilution recommended
  • To clean enclosure as well as accessories

HUMIDITY

Kep humidity 20-40%

  • Hygrometer in the middle of the enclosure is best to measure this

Temperature

  • Hot end 30-32°C
  • Cool end 22-24°C
  • No less than 20°C at night
  • Best to have a thermometer at gecko height at both the hot and cold end
  • Check the temperatures daily. Do not rely on thermostat readings as these can be unreliable
  • A temperature gun is also recommended for spot testing
  • Radiant heat sources are best during the day as they are more natural however, non-radiant heat source should be used at night to prevent temperature drop
  • Hot rocks are not recommended as can cause burns


UVB bulb

  • Shade dwelling T5 bulb recommended (5-7% UVB)
  • Tube bulb covering vivarium length recommended
  • 12hr light and 12 hour dark
  • Needs to be changed every 6 months or have it’s UV output checked as this deteriorates over time
  • Plastic or glass should not be between the UV bulb and the gecko as this can stop the UV rays getting through


Diet

  • Insectivores
    • Variety of insects is recommended
    • Can feed: crickets, roaches, locusts, waxworms, mealworms
    • Best to feed in the evening as this is more natural for them
    • Gut load insects 12-24 hours before feeding them to the gecko and dust with Ca immediately before feeding
      • Ensure no vit D3 or phosphorus in dust
      • Gut loading examples are:
        • Arcadia Insect Fuel or Repashy superload
    • A multivitamin is recommended once a week
      • Vitamin A is particularly important to supplement in leopard geckos
      • Insects are a poor source of Vitamin A and without it diseases of the eyes, ears, skin and respiratory system can occur
      • As Leopard geckos are insectivores they are unable to convert vitamin A from its precursors found in vegetables. This makes many multivitamins inappropriate for leopard geckos
      • The multivitamin given must contain Vitamin A as retinol, palmitate or retinoic acid. In NZ brands recommended are Repashy Calcium Plus or Flukers Reptile Multivitamin Liquid
  • Hatchlings + young fed 4-8 food items once a day
  • Adults
    • 4-10 items every 2-3 days
  • Fresh clean water should be provided at the cooler end of the tank
    • It is also recommended to bathe your gecko a 2-3 times a week for 15-30 minutes
    • This should be done in a shallow tub of lukewarm water
    • It is recommended to put something on the floor of the tub such as a face cloth for grip